King’s Food Host was a regional fast-food chain that opened theirfirst location in Lincoln, Nebraska back in 1955, and experiencedphenomenal growth thru the 1960s with over a hundred locationsacross 17 states and at least one Canadian province. Des Moineswas home to a few, most notably on the corner of 18th & Grand,across the street from TechHigh. However, King's fortunes declined greatly in the 1970swith the last remaining outlets being sold off in 1978.
Aside from the telephones at each table that customers used toplace their orders, King's was famous for a quirky cornflake-encrusted sandwich called the Cheese Frenchee.Back in the 80s when I worked for a political non-profit with asatellite office in Council Bluffs, I would go across the streetto enjoy a version of the Cheese Frenchee at alittle Greek gyro joint in the old Midlands Mall, long sincere-purposed as a business center.
Recipes for the deep-fried treat abound on the web, touting suchingredients as Russiandressing and powdered cheese. I don't know about suchingredients, but who cares since Angelo's Pizza – the same folkswho introduced Cincinnati chili to Des Moines [seeblog post] – now offer a Cheese Frenchieon their ever-expanding menu.
Cut into a quad of triangles with a golden exterior sportinglittle extrusions of cheese along the edges, the crispy cornflake coating presents a pleasing sweetness. More melted cheese awaitsinside, along with an unexpected tang I assume to be a thin veneerof salad dressing. On the whole a crispy, cheesy, decadent treat!
Since opening their second location near the Capitol Complexalong with the debut of Cincinnatichili on their menu, Angelo's has experiencedconsiderable success. State workers familiar with the E. 14thAngelo's eats while on lunch break now frequent the West DesMoines location for evening fare.
Now Angelo's has ventured into an arrangement with PintsPub n Patio at Court & Fourth, pitching their selectionof pizzas, chili, sandwiches, and appetizers to downtown workerbees on their lunch break and late-night partiers seeking analcohol sponge. With the new location, more appetizers have beenadded to the menu including Jalapeño MozzarellaSticks with a raspberry-jalapeño dipping sauce,as pictured below.
A couple of weekends ago, one of my favorite Saturday morningpair of baristas at AmiciEspresso was leaving and I wanted to treat the duo withbreakfast. Taking advantage of Angelo's new digs nearby I broughtover a Breakfast Pizza, only available as a 16-inchordered a day in advance.
The Breakfast Pizza was quite unique with a baseof chunky salsa ladled over Angelo's thin crust. The zest of salsapaired with the crispy, tender crust makes the pizza a standoutagainst the Farmers'Market breakfast pizzas offered by nearby Fong's andSomething Italian [see blog posts from July1, 2011, and August4, 2012]. Black olives, onion, green pepper,scrambled eggs, thin-sliced ham, and cheddar finish the build. Cutinto a dozen slices, our happy trio plus one lucky coffee shoppatron oohed and aahed over every bite.
Having been a fan of Angelo's long before their expansioneastward, I am hopeful for success with their new kitchen onCourt. Given the youthful, boozy clientele that Pints attracts atnight, I'll likely stick to carryout. In fairness, I barelytolerate the cramped bar scene at Fong's long enough to grab a fewslices and make a hasty retreat to Walnut St. to enjoy mylate-night repast.
| Photos from the Picasa Web Album: Reviewed Foods and More reviewed foods |
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